Stripped Down Into Full Project Mode

Today we stripped down the decks and cockpit area in preparation for two projects

C'est la Vie looking a bit naked with her deck hardware, turtle, dodger, gallows, and bimini gone.

The dodger, turtle, cabin handrails, and deck hardware succumb to the need to paint the cabin trunk.  Our plan is to refinish the cabin top and sides down to the non-skid on deck.  We will address the decks out to the toe rails and the cockpit later this year.   We created a photo album to document this project... Paint Cabin Trunk - Spring 2013 

turtle and trim off the cabin top

The more we can clear off the decks the easier the job and the better the finish.  Clearing deck fittings and hardware also gives us a good excuse to make some additional improvements - refinishing wood trim, replacing the broken head hatch with a solar vent, properly attaching the handrails with through bolts, and properly bedding every screw or bolt that enters the deck.

Meanwhile back in the cockpit, we removed the bimini and gallows crosspiece in preparation for installing two 80W solar panels.

test fitting the panels to figure out the best position.

The addition of a photo-voltaic (PV) system to C'est la Vie has long resided on our wish list.  Thanks to Ben V., an friend and co-worker who's previous profession was solar installations, for providing the expertise to jump start this project.  We ordered two Sunmodule 80W panels and a BlueSky Solar Boost 2000E charge controller from altE. The size of the panels was a compromise between energy production and mounting space.  I'm certain many cruisers are faced with the same delimia... want / need bigger panels, but lack suitable mounting options.

We created a photo album to document the PV project... Solar Power - Spring 2013

We will continue to add photos to the albums and updates here on the blog as our projects evolve.

Sewing new bug screens for hatches

Our existing hatch screens, made by Anne over 7 years ago, grew threadbare.  So now it is my turn to sew the hatch screens.  

With all the Outward Bound Staff departed we utilize the large spaces in the Sunset Island Lodge as work areas. 

The west end of the dining room converted to sewing loft.

 Having ample space to lay out projects is incredibly helpful.  For this endeavor a portion of the dining room became the sewing loft and the salon floor a space to draft out patterns.  

I utilized plastic sheeting for the pattern material.  Patterns represent the "no-see-um" screen portions of the hatch covers.  Due to it's light weight I find the screen difficult to work with so patterns assist with the layout and cutting. 

Basic geometry - a framing square, a straight edges, a 3' piece of string, and a tape measure were used to create the patterns.    

Fortunately C'est la Vie's two hatches are square.  The center hatch frame measures 22" x 22".  To leave ample room for operating the hatch, I created the pattern based on a 24" square.  The forward hatch measured 20" x 20" thus I used 22" for the pattern.  

Each hatch screen consists of two panels of "no-see-um" material.  The curved section wraps around to form the sides and back of the cover.  The rectangular  section follows the arc of the leading edge of the hatch as it moves from a close to open position.
   

Two patterns - the upper two panels are for the smaller forward hatch,  The larger patterns in the fore ground are for the  center hatch.

I use two sided tape to join and test the patterns.  Satisfied with the fit, the patterns are laid atop the screen and weighted down to hold the pattern and fabric stationary and wrinkle free while cutting. 

Ready to cut the screen.   Battens, straight edges, and a square are used to hold the fabric &  pattern stationary while cutting.

Attempting to cut clean edges on the screen is futile.  I hide all the edges of the screen in the finish product.  

For joining the screen sections prior to sewing, I use two sided basting tape (I gave up on pins a long time ago.)

joining the two screen sections with basting tape.

The screen material is too flimsy to securely hold stitches.  My solution is to use 1" nylon webbing as binding tape on the screen to screen seams.  This method has the added benefit of hiding those rough edges on the screen.

finally time to begin sewing.

We own a Sailrite LZ-1 and purchased a 1" binding tape attachment along with the machine.  This attachment is a must have in my opinion. Similar attachments are available for most machines.  

To more easily differentiate between to hatch screens, I used yellow binding tape on the center hatch and blue tape on the forward hatch. 

filling tubular webbing with lead cast net weights.

Tubular webbing filled with lead cast net weights serves as the ballast in base of the hatch screen. The lower edge of the screen and the weighted webbing are hidden inside a Sunbrella base.

the long sunbrella base sections.  

Since the sunbrella is a heavy fabric and the base sections are simple in shape, I did not create patterns for these pieces.   

Sewing base proved more complex than I originally speculated. Initially the two sections of the sunbrella base were sewn onto each side of the screen (i.e. interior & exterior.)   Next I tacked one end of the weighted tube onto the sunbrella base.  Finally I joined the two bottom edges of the base.

test fitting the final product.

Can't say I'm eager for a buggy night at anchor, but at least we are a bit more prepared.

More images from this project are available in the Hatch Screens - Spring 2013 photo album.  

    

Inflatable Dinghy

Our first dinghy, an 8 foot Port-A-Boat we called Origamy, served us well. 

Origami beached on Carrot Island with C'est la Vie in background - Beaufort, NC

After 7 years of faithful service the only alarming signs of wear were her seats splitting at the seams.  She towed well and stowed well on the starboard side along the rail.  

Origami stowed on C'est la Vie's starboard rail - Key West, FL

We retired her in spring 2012 after I completed the re-build / conversion of a 8 foot wooden sailing pram into a rowing dinghy - Dinghy Rebuild .  

Segundo - awaiting her first launch - Sunset Island, FL

We christened her Segundo.  She is a looker and we received many compliments on her.  We transported Segundo on the forward deck. 

C'est la Vie with Segundo on deck motor south in the ICW just off the Fort Pierce City Marina, FL.

Stowing a dinghy forward had the added benefit of serving as a fantastic hatch cover but added noticeable weight and windage to the bow. Did I mention weight?  When refitting Segundo I focused more on durability than weight.  Her 7'10' hull weights approximately 80 pounds. Ultimately her beauty could not overcome her foibles.  She proved to be a wet ride under power and towed poorly. 

For our next dinghy we decided to experiment with an inflatable.  Size and weight considerations eliminated the popular Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) designs.  That left us three options... aluminum roll up floor, wood slats floor, or inflatable floor.  This time around we elected to prioritize weight over durability and purchased the West Marine HP-275.   

Our yet un-named inflatable dinghy.

The HP-275's  high pressure floor (11 psi in floor vs. 3.6 psi in tubes) is identical to an inflatable stand up board. Having experienced the performance and durability of Anne's inflatable board boosted our confidence in this construction.  Thanks to the inflatable floor the HP-275 provides more carrying capacity and more free-board than her aluminum or wood slat brethren. She weighs in at  a svelte 63 lbs.  

We will experiment with various options for transporting the dinghy, but my guess is that for multi-day crossings she be deflated and go below; offshore hops she be stowed at the bow; and for daily travels inshore we will tow.  I plan to rig a bridle system for storing her out of the water along side C'est la Vie at night.

Does anyone out there have recommendations or diagrams for creating towing bridles or bridles for using a halyard to lift the dinghy out of the water for nightly storage? 

The winds of change are upon us...

Thunder from the spring's first afternoon thunderstorm rolling across Chokoloskee Bay signals a change in the seasons.  The absence of staff here on Sunset Island signals the end of our winter work with the Outward Bound School.

Afternoon thunderstorms rolling across Chokoloskee Bay

Now that Anne and I have the island and some time to ourselves we plan to dive headlong into awaiting boat projects.  

Items on the list include...

1. Purchase new dinghy
2. Complete install of new GPS
3. Sew new bug screens for hatches.
4. Complete refinishing the interior wood.
5. Refinish exterior wood.
6. Install new cabin sole.
7. Install solar system
8. Install new lower bow running lights
9. Replace broken hatch with new solar vent fan in head
10. Reseal starboard salon window
11. Paint Cabin trunk
12. Kiwi Grip on top of cabin trunk

We hope to have the projects completed and all our personal items moved off Sunset Island in time to depart for the Bahamas by mid May.   Now lets get busy.

Interior Brightwork - a shiny end in sight

Cool, sunny days for early March and some time off have conspired to accelerate the refinishing of C'est la Vies interior brightwork.

 salon table, starboard cabinet face, and some trim in process

The breezy, cool weather has kept the bugs at bay so no screen tent is required for working in the yard.  Devoting full days to the project has allowed me to applying the Bristol Finish wet on wet and thus build up the coats quickly.

All the wood fixed in C'est la Vie's cabin is now complete.

Salon cabinet completed, the hinged table section is visible in the first image

Many fixtures removed for refinishing are back in place.

Of course I've saved the best for last... louvered doors for the wardrobe locker.

 Two unfinished  pieces... wardrobe locker doors on left and folding table on right.

I have not discovered a good method for sanding louvers.  Anyone have a suggestion?

Slowly brushing forward on the interior brightwork

Nearly one month has passed since my last post.  I made steady progress on the interior wood in the first couple weeks of February.

Before and After...  four coats of Bristol Finish

Work commitments and rainy days have slowed down the progress in late February.  

I have chosen to use Bristol Finish on the interior wood.  We use Bristol Finish on the exterior wood and are typically pleased with the outcome.  Using the same product on all C'est la Vie's wood reduces the number various chemicals we need to carry aboard when traveling.   For the interior wood I am applying three coats wet on wet, allowing the finish to dry completely, sanding with  220 to 400 grit paper, and then applying a final top coat.

A galley cabinet door with the final coat drying.

I prefer to work on trim, drawers, and cabinet doors that are easily removed outside the boat.  Since we have quite a few bugs here in the Everglades, I typically set up a large screen tent as an outside work space.

Starboard salon cabinetry and trim ready for the first three coats.

 Much of the trim work either refuses to budge or is simply easier to refinish in place.  

I hope to commit a few full days to the trim and cabin sole in early March. 

Refinishing C'est la Vie's Cabin Sole.

Our winter work schedules have finally relaxed and now provide time to pick up the pace on boat projects.  We purchased the material for replacing the veneer on the cabin sole nearly one year ago.  No more procrastination. Time to quit hauling the roll of laminate around and actually install it.  

First a bit of history.

August 2005 - Our first glimpse of C'est la Vie on the hard in Titusville, FL

Prior to our purchase of C'est la Vie in December 2005, she weathered the epic 2004 Atlantic Hurricane Season on the hard in Titusville, FL.  Debris from TS Charlie plugged the cockpit scuppers while the rains filled the cockpit.  A few weeks later TS Francis transited the area and dumped additional rains.  The accumulated water cascaded down C'est la Vie's companionway and flooded the interior to a depth of approximately six inches over the cabin sole in the galley.  

We repaired or replaced most victims of the flooding immediately after purchasing C'est la Vie.     The cabin sole remains one of the few items that bears evidence of the flooding.

The cabin sole looking forward from the galley.  Dark stains on trim upper right note high water mark  from 2004 flooding.

The removable sections of the sole were successfully refinished by the previous owner in 2005.  The non-removable sections of the sole have continued to deteriorate. Last spring veneer began to peel away in front of the stove and became a nasty source for splinters in bare feet.

Sole in galley area.  Note dark  high water mark on corner  trim on right side of image.

While pulling all the floor and corner trim in preparation of creating templates, project creep set inn as a realized now is the time to refinish wooden trim surrounding the cabin sole.

While make a mess atop the new sole?  Break out the sandpaper!  I have created a new photo album for this project... Refinishing Cabin Sole - Winter 2013.  A link is also available in the Projects Side Bar on the blog page.   More to come...

New Companionway Screen (a.k.a Reuse/Recycle)

Our existing companionway screen was ill fitting along the sides and bottom of the opening.  When a day off presented the opportunity for some project time I collected an unused dive weight, a retired Outward Bound tent, old tubular webbing, and sunbrella scraps left from previous projects and set about creating a new companionway cover.  Using our well fitting cloth companion way cover as a template, I began by creating the weights for the top and bottom.   Filling tubular webbing with the lead shot from the dive weight was my initial plan.

But once full of lead I felt the tube's stiffness along its length would inhibit it from conforming well to the irregular topography of the top of the cabin.

Using the light weight fabric from the retired tent body, I sewed a larger diameter tube for the upper weight.

Despite receiving more lead the thin nylon and larger cross section served to create a much more supple weight for the top.

Cutting the no-see-um proof mesh screen proved to be much more challenging than anticipated.  After a few failed attempts at straight cuts, I resorted to marking out the proper dimensions out on a sheet of plywood; tacking the mesh out on the plywood atop the lines; and then using a razor blade to cut the mesh to size.  This system worked well.  The relative stiffness of the sunbrella as compared to the screen was easy to lay out and cut to the correct dimensions.

I  do realize many people lay out sewing projects with pins, but for me two sided basting tape is my go to product.  Using the basting tape I assembled the screen one side at a time with the tape and then sewed it together.

The sewing order went vertical sides, the bottom, and then the top.  I added a sunbrella wear patch at the location that the companionway latch contacts the screen.

I gave our old screen covers to a fellow sailor in exchange for some lead shot.  Once he delivers the lead I begin replacing the screen covers on our two cabin hatches.